As with other cocoa-producing regions, cocoa cultivation was introduced to Asia during the colonial period. The first trees were brought to Indonesia by the Spanish in the 16th century. It was not until 1970 that the cocoa sector began to develop significantly in Asia, particularly in Indonesia, Malaysia, Papua New Guinea, and, on a smaller scale, in the Philippines, Vietnam, Thailand , Myanmar, Laos, and Cambodia.
The origins of cocoa
The genus Theobroma (Greek for "food of the gods") originated millions of years ago in South America, east of the Andes. Theobroma has been divided into twenty-two species, of which T. cacao is the best known.
Recent archaeological evidence found in southern Ecuador indicates that cocoa beans were already being used more than 5,300 years ago by indigenous peoples, 1,500 years before the tree's domestication.
Since then, T. cacao seeds have been used by several pre-Columbian civilizations , including the Maya (covering present-day Mexico, Guatemala, and Honduras), the Incas (covering present-day Peru, Ecuador, Colombia, and Bolivia), and the Aztecs (covering present-day southern Mexico).
Cocoa beans were used by pre-Columbian civilizations as a food ingredient (for drinks, mixed with corn flour and spices), but also as currency or for ritual behaviors.
The first foreigner to drink chocolate was Christopher Columbus , who reached Nicaragua in 1502, in search of a sea route to the spices of the East. But it was Hernan Cortés, leader of an expedition in 1519 to the Aztec Empire, who returned to Spain in 1528 taking with him the Aztec recipe for xocoatl (chocolate drink).
The drink was initially received with little enthusiasm and it was only after the addition of sugar that it became a popular drink in the Spanish courts and, gradually, in other European courts.
In order to meet the growing demand from Europeans, cocoa cultivation slowly spread during the period of colonization to the three main cocoa-producing regions described below: Asia, Africa, and Latin America and the Caribbean.
How to make chocolate like a chocolatier?
1. Harvesting/Cleaning
As with many other tropical crops, the cocoa harvest spans several months, typically with a major peak and a minor peak of pod ripening/harvesting. Cocoa pods must be carefully removed from the trees using a knife to avoid damaging the flower cushions.
After inspecting and carrying out the necessary tests to ensure compliance with international standards and regulatory requirements, the cocoa bean cleaning process takes place.
The interior of an undamaged cocoa bean is clean in every respect (eliminating foreign matter ranging from machete blades to shotgun shell casings) and will remain so as long as it is stored properly and not mixed with contaminated materials that were not completely removed during cleaning or subsequent downstream steps.
2. Fermentation
The aroma of chocolate develops in two parts: the first takes place on the farm, thanks to the correct fermentation of the wet beans by the producer, and the second in the factory, during the cocoa roasting stage. It is not possible to obtain a good chocolate taste by respecting only one of these steps.
During the early stages of fermentation, much of the cocoa pulp drains off, and the beans are fermented after 36 to 72 hours. The processes of aroma development are complex and still poorly understood, although significant progress has recently been made through the use of expert analysis and sensory evaluation techniques (aroma profiling).
3. Drying
After fermentation, the moisture content of the beans must be reduced from 55% to 7.5%—a suitable moisture content for safe storage of cocoa for a few months in the tropics. Smallholders place the wet beans on raised bamboo mats or, less satisfactorily (for hygiene reasons), on concrete platforms on the ground in villages.
The duration of the drying stage depends on weather conditions, but it is rare for sun drying in West Africa, for example, to be completed in less than a week.
4. Roasting
Cocoa bean roasting can be described as an individual process. While all manufacturers have a similar goal: to produce products efficiently, flavor goals for cocoa liquors generally differ from company to company and country to country.
Therefore, the flavor objective is a key factor in determining the type and blend of cocoa beans to be processed, the choice of roasting whole beans or cocoa nibs , the type of roasting equipment, and the roasting parameters used.
In short, there is no right or wrong roasting level, nor a correct or incorrect way to achieve the desired roasting level. The correct roasting method and roasting level is the process that efficiently and cost-effectively produces groats with the chosen flavor system and produces products that meet the needs of consumers in a given market.
5. Winnowing
Cocoa winnowing , cracking, fanning, and hulling are some of the terms and phrases that describe the separation of the husk (shell) and the bean flesh (nib). It is a process where achieving a clean separation of the two components is dictated by economics, product integrity, and, in many countries, government regulations.
6. Crushing the shot
The grinding of cocoa beans saw many advances in the latter half of the 20th century. Before liqueur mills, one grinding method involved mixing the beans with granulated sugar and placing the mixture in a blender.
This process made it possible to obtain a material whose consistency ranged from that of a paste to that of a liquid.
7. Alkalization
The alkalization process is optionally applied to modify the aroma and color of chocolate liquors andcocoa powders . It is also known as the Dutch process.
The process involves mixing the selected cocoa material (cocoa cake, nibs or cocoa liquor) with an aqueous solution of a specific alkaline compound and mixing at high temperatures and possibly increased pressures.
Common alkali compounds are potassium carbonate, calcium carbonate, and sodium hydroxide. The resulting product ranges in color from light red to carbon black.
8. Pressing the liquor
Typically, the separation or pressing process begins with pumping hot cocoa liquor (200 degrees Celsius) into a horizontal hydraulic press with an operating pressure of up to 550 bars.
The cocoa cake formed during this pressing operation is then broken and ground to obtain particles of a specified size, depending on the end use.
9. Grinding the cocoa
Before starting to be ground, the pressed cocoa cake must go through a series of cooling stages. The hammer mill and disc mill are the most commonly used grinders in the industry, and a classifier is usually included in the system to improve grinding efficiency.
In reality, the term cocoa grinding is misleading. The particle size of the finished powder depends on the particle size of the pressed cocoa liquor. Commonly used grinders do not reduce the particle size of the cake; instead, they tend to break up agglomerates.
It's also worth mentioning that cocoa powder must be tempered. This is a type of controlled cooling in which the powder is kept at specific temperatures for predetermined periods of time to allow the cocoa butter to form a stable crystalline configuration. The powder must then be stored properly to maintain its color, softness, and fluidity.
10. Cocoa butter
The other product obtained by pressing cocoa liquor is cocoa butter. It is the most expensive ingredient among the main ingredients in a chocolate recipe.
The color of cocoa butter can be an excellent indicator of potential problems. For example, shipments that are dark brown rather than golden warrant further testing. It can indicate improper handling during processing and storage.
11. Chocolate making
Cocoa liquor, cocoa butter, and sugar are the three main ingredients needed to produce the different types of chocolate found around the world.
Broadly speaking, chocolate making is divided into four areas:
- The dosage, which is the combination of cocoa liquor, sugar or sweeteners, milk powder (if it is milk chocolate), cocoa butter and non-volatile flavorings, according to a recipe or formula.
- Reducing the particles in chocolate ingredients is necessary to produce the smooth product that most consumers expect.
- Cocoa conching is a complex process that has been and continues to be studied in great detail in order to fully understand the changes (especially in the chocolate aroma) that occur in chocolate during this process.
- Standardization, a step in which the viscosity of the chocolate is adjusted by adding fats, usually cocoa butter, and emulsifiers. Volatile flavorings may also be added at this stage.
The nutritional qualities of chocolate
In the past, chocolate was favored as a high-calorie food to boost energy for high-performing individuals such as athletes or soldiers.
Unfortunately, due to the processes and ingredients used in its manufacture (sugar, milk, other refined ingredients with high calorie content), chocolate has gradually been classified as "junk food" and associated with the increase in the number of cases of obesity.
Recently, more in-depth research has been conducted on the health and nutritional properties of cocoa and chocolate. Regular consumption of cocoa can improve a person's overall mood and combat symptoms related to depression , thus leading to a better quality of life. Research findings also indicate that certain components of cocoa may help prevent cardiovascular disease and reduce the risk of cancer.
Other health benefits include helping with weight management and providing a source of antioxidants thanks to cocoa fiber, or reducing the risk of developing type 2 diabetes thanks to cocoa flavanols.
Additionally, cocoa beans are the most concentrated source of theobromine. Both theobromine and caffeine are methylxanthines, a group of substances whose effects on cognition and mental performance have been extensively studied. Theobromine, unlike caffeine, has been shown to have a mild stimulating effect on the central nervous system .
With increasing attention being paid to the health and nutritional aspects of cocoa and chocolate, the ICCO Secretariat has taken the initiative, with the support of its Council, to take part in the ongoing debate, with the aim of giving the general public a more objective picture of the attributes of cocoa and chocolate.
Accordingly, the Secretariat produced a first draft of an "Inventory of Health and Nutritional Attributes of Cocoa and Chocolate" , as well as a first draft of an Action Programme on the Health and Nutritional Aspects of Cocoa and Chocolate, which suggests the organization of an international conference at which the most recent research on this subject would be presented.
The 2 categories of cocoa beans in the world
The global cocoa market distinguishes between two broad categories of cocoa beans: "fine flavor" cocoa beans and "bulk" or "regular" cocoa beans. Generally speaking, "fine flavor" cocoa beans are produced from Criollo or Trinitario cocoa tree varieties , while "bulk" (or regular) cocoa beans are produced from Forastero trees.
There are, however, known exceptions to this generalization. Ecuador's Nacional trees, considered Forastero trees, produce a finely flavored cocoa. In contrast, Cameroonian cocoa beans, produced by Trinitario trees and whose cocoa powder has a distinct and sought-after red color, have until now been classified as loose cocoa beans.
It's worth noting that the difference between fine cocoa and bulk cocoa lies in the aroma rather than other quality factors. Fine aromas include fruit (fresh and browned, ripe fruit), floral, herbal, and woody notes, nutty and caramel notes, and rich and balanced chocolate bases.
However, the definition of fine cocoa remains controversial as there is no single, universally accepted criterion that could be adopted as a basis for determining whether or not cocoa of a given origin should be classified as fine cocoa.
Generally, a combination of criteria is used to assess the quality of fine cocoa . These include the genetic origin of the planting material, the morphological characteristics of the plant, the taste characteristics of the cocoa beans produced, the chemical characteristics of the cocoa beans, the degree of fermentation, drying, acidity, off-flavors, the percentage of internal mold, insect infestation, and the percentage of impurities.
Quality assessors award or deduct points based on the condition of the cocoa beans in relation to the above criteria. However, the measurement of some of these criteria is subjective and does not allow for an objective determination of whether the cocoa in question has the characteristics of fine cocoa or aroma cocoa .
To address this gap, a new definition of fine cocoa is stipulated in Article 2.2. of the International Cocoa Agreement 2010 (as amended): Fine cocoa is cocoa characterized by a complex sensory profile, composed of basic attributes well balanced with aroma and taste notes; complementary attributes can be clearly perceived and identified in the expression of its aromas and flavors; it results from the interaction between:
- a particular genetic composition
- favorable growing conditions in a given environment/terroir
- specific plantation management techniques
- specific harvesting and post-harvest practices
- a stable chemical and physical composition
- the integrity of the bean
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